Sensual: ‘relating to or involving gratification of the senses’.

Leaving the bustling village of Haenertsburg behind, we turned off the tarred R71, onto a well-maintained dirt road. We hurry a little, as it is getting late. Mist and rain have settled the dust, bringing out the aroma of the red African soil. On either side, lush vegetation in a startling array of greens surrounds us, which eventually gives way to plantations.

We find the entrance to Kuhestan Organic Farm and ring the bell at the gate. After a short while, the gate silently slides open – and we enter a world of enchantment.

As we park at reception, Brett and Shahrzad hurry out, with a hasty greeting and some firm encouragement to simply leave the car where it is and come and see the view ‘before it’s too late’. We hurry to a wooden deck which overlooks a magnificent valley of indigenous forest. It’s spectacular – but I am aware that with the looming dark and the heavy mist, we are seeing significantly less than one would on a sunny day.

Thereafter it’s off to the cottage, and a quick walk around the garden, with the promise of more the following morning. We’re left to settle in, after which we relax into a bottle of wine, accompanied by bread and cheese bought at the Wegraakbosch Dairy Farm. A good end to a long day.

Waking early, there is initially the silence of the mist surrounding us, broken occasionally by the sound of water dripping off the roof onto the veranda. Which, coming from the city, was a heavenly way to begin the day.

The breaking of dawn was a gentle light on the white mist that still surrounded us. It was accompanied by birdsong – some familiar, like the purple crested louries, others less so. The mist still swirled, and I realised that it was unlikely that we would see the sun anytime soon.

I linger in the sumptuous bed with its crisp white linen, contemplating the notion that one of life’s true luxuries is time. Eventually, I head the bathroom, lured by the promise of a deliciously hot shower and soft towels – hot off the towel warmer. The considered approach to luxury extends to the huge shower, with the mixer located just inside the glass door. This design enables one to get the perfect temperature before stepping in – as opposed to the usual farce of dodging alternately icy cold or scalding water.

Sometime later, I wander into the immaculate kitchen, which has a distinct Provençal air about it. All except for the fridge, which is huge with a quirky, colourful exterior. Fresh milk, farm eggs, butter and delectable preserves are found in its cavernous interior, whilst freshly baked farm bread beckons from the counter.

We whip up a delicious brunch of fluffy scrambled eggs on warm toast, and sit on the veranda, happily munching away as we watch sunbirds frolicking. A truly splendid way to begin a day!

Mid-morning we wander to the main house to find Shahrzad, who has promised us a tour of the facilities. We locate her, and are rewarded with a warm, genuine smile. This Persian woman has a wonderful aura about her, embracing, good-natured and fully engaged with life.

Brett is also there, a softly-spoken, gentle soul – quietly getting on with the business of managing the staff whilst we get on with our conversation.

We take a stroll around the beautiful gardens, accompanied by happy hounds. Her love for the garden is palpable – you can tell that this is her abiding passion. The mist still surrounds us, lending an enchanted air to the walk.

Shahrzad wanders through her garden, regaling us with facts, anecdotes and stories, encouraging us to smell this rose, take a closer look at that insect… her deep delight in her garden is tangible.

The vegetable garden is equally lush. We are encouraged to eat asparagus raw and directly from the earth (delicious!) and get to snack on crunchy, sweet peas. She plucks this and tidies that as she goes, pointing out a beautiful locust and a delicate toadstool before she moves on.

Eventually we make our way to the tasting room, which is fitted out with beautiful wooden tables and chairs, and shelves along an entire wall which are filled with all the products grown and processed on the farm.
 
To be continued next week…

INFORMATION:

Kuhestan Organic Farm
Shahrzad Hone: 082 903 7593 
Brett Hone: 082 887 8029
info@kuhestan.co.za
www.kuhestan.co.za

I wish you a beautiful week – always remember to take time to be in the moment and pause to appreciate the beauty that surrounds us…

Yours in Travel,

ENDS

The road up to the cemetery is a bumpy jeep track, the deep red earth running like a fresh wound up the mountain. Critically endangered grassland on the one side and pine plantations on the other – the dichotomy, the polarity of life is once again apparent. Views up here are apparently breath-taking, but in this moment I was deep in the clouds.

The mist swirls, reducing my world to a magical little secret garden. Under towering trees covered in old man’s beard, heavy water drops land on my head. The psychedelic magenta of an azalea bush appears, bold and bright against the subdued greys and greens, only to recede again as you move on. One could be forgiven for feeling that you are sleepwalking in a surreal dream, with visions appearing and fading…. always surrounded by the swirling mists.

As I wander, ancient, weathered headstones covered in lichen and moss come into focus. But the names are lost to eternity. Even in this final resting place of the dead, individuality is ceded. The blossoms of a crab apple tree slowly drift to the ground, creating a snow of petals – lily white with the palest blush of pink. A world lost in the mists of time. Not eerie – just peaceful. The scent of jasmine hangs heavy in the air, combining with the aroma of rain on the African soil. Feeling the reverence, I take my time…

When I eventually leave, the plantations loom large behind the cemetery. Their needle-covered floor absorbs even more sound. The distinctive scent of pine, sweet, sharp and refreshing, wafts on the gentle breeze. On the fringes, the fresh lime-coloured fern leaves are unfurling… emphasizing the fact that new life is everywhere. From somewhere deep in a valley of ancient indigenous forest, the call of a purple crested lourie resonates.

The mist, the proximity of the dead and the presence of new life. A garden of the circle of life. We arrive in this world, usually to great fanfare, completely ignorant of the Smörgåsbord of life that awaits us. Some, rather unfortunately, die still blithely unaware. So little time, so much to experience. We depart this earth with equal ceremony. The real question is what did you do with the time between?

As I gaze across the final resting place of so many, I can feel my heartbeat. As a gentle breeze plays with my hair, I am aware of the blood pumping though my veins. As the cold mist touches my warm cheek, I feel vitally alive.

A thought flits through my mind, that the dead are urging us to celebrate the fullness of life, their long-forgotten heartbeats like a gentle drumbeat – urging one to dance to the rhythm of this wonderful life we have been blessed with.

Dance, little lady, dance! The time is but fleeting…

ENDS

The Northern Cape is Big Sky Country, with miles and miles of ‘nothing’ between towns. And heat… so much heat. Most days on our trip were around 36°C – some higher. But that was exactly what was needed to break the mundane day-to-day existence of Jozi. We were on the road for a week yet, despite having to drive long distances between each attraction, we managed to see soooo many delightful bits and bobs – which we will obviously be sharing with you! So, let’s begin!

The first day’s distance was 835km – from Jozi to Upington, and then on to Kanoneiland. There were some really interesting stops along the way which will be featured in the near future, but today’s focus is on the island and our stunning overnight venue – African Vineyard.

Kanoneiland is a surprising settlement, situated on the largest island in the Orange River (14km long and 3km at the widest point). It is also considered the largest inhabited island in South Africa. “Cannon Island” gets its name from a rather unfortunate incident. The nomadic Koranna (under the leadership of Klaas Pofadder) lived on the island and hid in the dense bush – from whence they conducted cattle and sheep rustling sorties. In 1879 the issue came to a head, and the island was attacked by the Cape Artillery Corps with a small cannon (now located in front of the old school building) for a number of days. Not to be outdone, the Korannas built their own cannon from the trunk of a large quiver tree. They loaded it with gunpowder and various pieces of stone and scrap and fired it across the stream. When the smoke cleared six of their own men lay dead, killed by the makeshift cannon.

Today, virtually every inch of soil is under irrigation and intensively cultivated. The fertile alluvial soil, the water from the Orange River and the superb climate provide perfect conditions for the cultivation of sultana grapes, lucerne, pecan nuts and even cotton. Farming activity began here in 1928 with 52 pioneer families that settled on the island. Life wasn’t easy – they even had to make use of a raft (eventually replaced with a ferry) to cross back onto the mainland. A single lane bridge was constructed in 1940 on the southern end of the island, and a second bridge followed in 1954 on the northern side of the island.

I initially met Elmarie in 2015 on my first trip to the Namib. I was travelling alone and reaching this little piece of paradise after a long drive was particularly rewarding. Elmarie comes across as humble, down to earth and incredibly welcoming. Her casual manner belies a professional career – she is actually “Dr Elmarie de Bruin”, with a PhD in Marketing. Beyond lecturing in marketing and holding positions as a Senior Public Relations Practitioner in more than one petrochemical company, she was previously the Chairperson of the Kokerboom Food & Wine Route. I only know her as a most gracious hostess – “she of the amazingly warm smile”!

Her operation runs like clockwork, and her staff emanate the professionalism so obvious in her own approach. This has obviously served the venue well, and today the operation is twice the size of the venue I visited in 2015. Over and above the extra rooms now available, the Spa is now housed in its own venue.

After arriving and doing all the Covid-admin required (it’s great to visit a venue where you are comfortable that all protocols are being adhered to), we were shown to our rooms. Before I could close my door, in came little Roxy – a rather special lady who insisted on spending the evening in my room in 2015. This time was no different… It was just wonderful to see this little pup again!

The time before our mouth-watering dinner was spent on comfortable couches around the pool. We had time to chat and catch up, all the while sipping on cool liquid refreshments. It has been the longest time since I had a “Coke Float” – it went down particularly well in the heat of the late afternoon!

When dinner was served, it was simply delicious. Each of us had something different… deboned lamb roll (which was melt-in-your-mouth tender), a superb steak and the lamb curry. All of our meals were superb. On our return trip, we all opted for the Oxtail, which was (predictably) as good as I remembered from the previous trip. Both dinner and breakfast (fresh fruit salad, yoghurt and muesli – all the way through to a delectable hot a la carte menu) are included in the price of the executive rooms and, to be honest, really good value for money.

Going back somewhere remembered so fondly is always a risk – and yet this time I was even more impressed, if that is possible! We highly recommend this venue – whether as a stopover en route to Namibia, or to the flowers of Namaqualand, or simply as a destination. Elmarie runs week-long retreats, complete with Spa treatments – just the thing to relax you after a particularly trying year! Many are married at this beautiful venue – once again emphasizing the value of local destinations above overseas options. A more luxurious, exotic and welcoming venue you could honestly not wish for… We will be back!!

#NorthernCape #AfricanVineyards

CONTACT DETAILS

Address: Upington, Northern Cape, South Africa
Plot 79, Kanoneiland (25km from Upington & 15km from Keimoes on the N14)
PO Box 1071, Upington, 8800
Northern Cape, South Africa

Enquiries: +27605038449 / +27798557565

Reservations: reservations@africanvineyard.co.za

Co-ordinates:
S28° 39′ 22. 3 / E21° 04′ 41. 1
S28° 39.372 / E21° 04.685

As we bumped along the dirt road, I inhaled happiness…

The previous evening, there had been a severe storm, complete with thunder, lightning and torrential downpours.

We awoke to clear skies, sunshine and a newly washed world. The wilderness is undoubtedly my happy place but after spending most of the year locked down, sitting on the game drive vehicle with the wind in my hair, enjoying the smell of the African soil after rain and just completely relaxing… well, the effect was nothing short of profound. The African Bush is the perfect place to gain perspective and reconnect with your soul.

Little Mongena is a delightful lodge located in the Dinokeng Reserve – a mere 140km from Jozi. There’s a lapa, a plunge pool and a viewing deck, complete with comfortable couches, which also doubles as the restaurant.

Accommodation is in tents, each with a beautiful view of the dam – either from the little veranda or even from your bed! The tents have a bathroom en suite and everything else you could possibly need. I was really impressed with the number of plug points in each unit – you could each charge your phone, your camera batteries and still have plug points to spare. The air conditioner was efficient and an absolute blessing in the heat.

The heart and soul of any lodge is the people and at Little Mongena you have some of the best. I was travelling with two elderly relatives and had concerns about their ability to get onto the game drive vehicles. Prior to arrival, I made contact with the General Manager, Duncan Eicker, expressing my concerns. He assured me that he would take care of it. He made certain that they were allocated to the unit with the lowest step, and on arrival we were presented with the choice of a step or a small ladder which he had specifically gone and purchased prior to our arrival. Hammanskraal is not Sandton, yet he managed to source an appropriate item, keeping in touch with me throughout the process, allowing me to choose a preferred set of steps. A level of service which is exceedingly rare these days. During our stay, both our rangers were ladies, and they were fabulous. Zaan and Cherise were knowledgeable, courteous, engaging and considerate drivers. Our experience was richer for their understanding of the bush and desire to give us the best possible experience.

I subscribe to the notion that the bush chooses what it will reveal. You could pass within five meters of an elephant and not know it was there. Ultimately, it is all up to chance. On one occasion, we happened to notice a baby wildebeest, and in stopping to take a closer look, were rewarded with a lovely sighting of a black rhino cow and her calf. It was such a privilege to see these animals.

Sometimes you are destined not to see a particular animal. We were taken to the enclosures which contained a pair of leopards (in separate areas, but next to each other) that are awaiting release into the reserve. The area was not large, nor was it particularly overgrown, and whilst we could see their spoor, we could not see the pair who lived up to their reputation as the masters of disguise.

We had so many amazing sightings, from buffalo, lion, cheetah and rhino, through eland, zebra, impala and wildebeest (with their new-born young), to various birding specials, rock monitors and even dung beetles busily rolling their balls along the road. We were taught how to make bracelets from the bark of the silver cluster-leaf and were intrigued with the magico-medicinal properties of many of the plants. We heard lion and jackal calling at night, and an ostrich making a loud “boom” during the day (a first for me!). We stopped to appreciate the beauty of tiny wildflowers and had sundowner drinks in scenic spots. The staff were attentive and polite, and the food was simply superb. Each day started with a full-house breakfast after the game drive, a high tea each afternoon and a delicious three course dinner at night. So generous were the portions, we were seldom able to finish what was on our plates…

2020 has been a hard year for all of us. We have yet to see the back of this pandemic, and with the infections once again on the rise, it is preferable to keep travelling locally. I believe that we underestimate the effect this year has had on our minds and souls. Spending time reconnecting with nature is the perfect antidote. Returning from what was effectively only three days, I feel completely rejuvenated and ready to once again take on the world.

Perhaps you should give yourself, or someone close to you, the gift of a wilderness experience this Christmas? It truly is one of the most meaningful breaks I have experienced in a long time, primarily because it gave me the ability to just breathe, get some perspective and realise that this too shall pass…

#TravelLocal #LittleMongena #AfricanSoul #Restored

Telephone: +27 11 568 4705

Reservations: res@wildhospitality.com

Office Hours 08:00am – 17:00 pm GMT+2 Monday – Friday